Roasted duck legs with orange and garam masala

This is a really easy recipe that brings out the best in a few ingredients that work really well together.

Ingredients:

1. a few duck legs (depending on who you're feeding)
2. a handful of oranges
3. some garam masala
4. a little bit of duck fat
5. salt and pepper

Method:

• pat the duck skins dry, then score and rub well with salt
• leave the duck to rest for around an hour at room temperature
• get the oven heated to 160 C
• put a little duck fat into a smallish casserole dish, skin side up, then pop in the duck legs (they should just fit)
• turn the oven down to 140 C and put the duck in
• juice around 5 oranges and add to a pan
• zest 2 of these oranges and put the zest into fresh water
• with around an hour of the duck's cooking time to go, put the orange juice into a pan and bring to a simmer, this needs to be stirred and basically moved around throughout
• turn the heat down and allow to reduce by half (adding a little black pepper)
• with around 20 minutes of the cooking time to go, add zest (that you've taken out of the water) to the juice and sprinkle a little garam masala over each duck leg
• serve each duck leg smothered with a generous spoon of orange sauce

Eskom 'ek se' salad

In South Africa we are struggling a little to keep the home fires burning, or put another way, to make enough electricity for the general population. This may seem like a serious issue, and it is, but as the world's rainbow nation we are blessed with more than enough to be thankful for. Big sky, smiles that could power a few Chinese mega-cities, some of the world's best wine, legendary landscapes, wildlife of note and an excitement indigenous only to this continent.

In the weeks to come, if you try to switch the oven on and it says no, and if you're just not in the mood for a braai, which might seem an unlikely situation, here is a great little salad to keep you happy.

Ingredients:

1) 200g mozzarella, sliced

2) 100g smoked salmon, torn into strips

3) 2 juicy, ripe peaches, cut into small wedges

4) a small pack of rocket, dressed in a little olive oil and balsamic vinegar

5) a handful of cherry tomatoes, halved

6) half a green pepper, cut into slices

7) a few slices of cucumber

8) a good drizzle of chili oil

9) salt and pepper

Method:

Mix all the salad ingredients, dress with chili oil and sprinkle over a little salt and pepper.

Talking Tahini

Tahini is a ground sesame seed paste used regularly in the Middle-east, Greece, Turkey and North Africa.  It's packed full of vitamins, minerals, protein and other things that would be filed in the 'good stuff' folder.  It's easy for your digestive system to deal with, gives your liver a lift and most importantly is a versatile ingredient that has great flavour.

A lot of supermarkets sell Tahini and health shops should have it on their shelves. You might think it's on the expensive side but try it and you'll soon realise that a little goes a long way.

For a great salad dressing or sauce to go over some roasted vegetables or fish, mix 2 Tbsp Tahini, a good squeeze of lemon juice and a glug of olive oil.  Add water to get to the consistency you're looking for. 

Baba ganoush is something that takes a little more time but is worth every second. 


Baba ganoush 

Ingredients:

1. 3 eggplants
2. 1/2 cup Tahini paste
3. 1 tsp coarse salt
4. 3 Tbsp lemon juice
5. 4 cloves garlic
6. 1/2 tsp cumin, ground
7. a pinch of cayenne pepper
8. a glug of olive oil
9. some flat-leaf parsley
10. a pinch of smoked paprika

Method:

• roast eggplant and garlic in the oven at 180C (or even better over an open flame) until soft and almost burnt (this gives the all important smoky flavour)
• peel the eggplant and add to garlic flesh in a bowl
• add ground cumin, salt, lemon juice, cayenne pepper and a glug of olive oil
• mix well with a fork (or in a blender) until relatively smooth
• serve in a dish and add a glug of olive oil, a good sprinkle of finely chopped parsley and a pinch of smoked paprika
• serve with bread, crackers or anything else 

Ataraxia, The Plettenberg and the taxi that forgot about us

I have been fortunate enough to attend a few wine dinners at 'The Plettenberg' over the last few years.  It's a great place to enjoy a meal and to learn about and taste some of our fantastic South African wines.  The exciting thing is that it seems as if these events are getting better and better.  A recent dinner, with wines from Ataraxia, was almost perfect.  I'll let the menu do the talking:

 

Canapés

Confit duck wonton

Smoked salmon tartar

Broccoli, pear & Danish feta quiche

Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc 2014

 

Free range chicken ballottine

baby gem, parmesan custard, anchovy aioli,

pancetta crisps, caramelised walnuts

Ataraxia Sauvignon Blanc 2014
 

Slow roasted pork belly

prawn and glass noodle salad, spiced pineapple chutney,

asian vinaigrette, crackling

Ataraxia Chardonnay 2013
 

Parmesan gnocchi

oyster mushrooms, baby beets, deep fried artichokes,

 red onion marmalade,pine nut paste

Ataraxia declassified Pinot Noir 2013

Roast beef tenderloin

oxtail, potato & wild mushroom gratin, pea puree, confit pearl onions,

 red wine jus

Ataraxia Serenity 2009

assiette of friandise

Earl grey madeleine, assorted macaroons, pistachio & walnut baklava, marshmallows, Turkish delights, mini tiramisu phyllo baskets

Executive chef, Grant Parker, had the somewhat difficult task of compiling a menu that could stand up to a list of wines of exceptional quality.  The food could very easily have been bullied into the background but this was not the case.  The food and wine shone in equal measures. 

Kevin Grant, owner and winemaker at Ataraxia, has a special piece of land in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge Ward, near Hermanus.  He's a self-proclaimed soil farmer and says that essentially what he does is put soil in a glass, with the help of some grapes and a bit of effort.  Kevin, a Burgundy fanatic, is working hard to create wines that have ageing potential.  A great example of this is his Chardonay, with a delicate oak expression that accentuates the complex fruit and bold mineral acidity.  In fact, an ABC (anything but Chardonnay) advocate at our table, who, when first presented with the wine, nervously sniffed and poked at it, fell in love and it turned out to be her wine of the night.  In reference to his Sauvignon Blanc, Kevin says the vintage on the label shouldn't be the sell (or consume) by date, sadly an impression that is often absorbed by the market.  He is a winemaker that speaks with abundant humour and a chiseled common sense and I can't remember experiencing a more interesting, informal wine talk in the last few years.  The 'declassifed' 2013 Pinot Noir, that is not being commercialised until it's just right (according to Kevin), has huge potential and seems to, like his Chardonnay, be a cheerful amalgamation of old and new-world winemaking and style.

The most wonderful thing about the evening was that we had pre-booked a taxi for the ride home.  The worst thing was it never arrived.

Grant has very kindly given me the recipe for his Gnocchi dish.

parmesan gnocchi

oyster mushroom, baby beets, deep fried artichokes,

red onion marmalade, pine nut paste

 

for the parmesan gnocchi

1. 400g potato
2. 160g white flour
3. 1 whole egg
4. 5ml fine salt
5. 120g finely grated parmesan cheese

Method:

• bake the potato in an oven at 180 degrees for approximately 40 mins making sure it's cooked all the way through
• peel the potato and pass it through a fine sieve
• add the flour, egg, salt and parmesan
• knead the mixture for 5 mins
• lightly dust a board with flour and break the dough into 4 pieces
• roll the dough into a sausage shape, approximately 1.5cm in diameter
• from the left hand side cut the end piece off and discard
• pinch the mixture with your index finger and thumb to form a hour glass shape and cut on the right side of the shape, will be about 2cm in length
• cut all the dough and place on a tray, lightly dusted with flour, use a large knife to pick this mixture up
• place a pot on the stove with water and salt and bring to the boil
• have a container with ice and cold water ready
• in batches place the gnocchi into the boiling water and stir softly so that it doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan
• once the gnocchi comes to the surface it is cooked, with a slotted spoon remove it from the water and place into the ice cold water
• carry on this way until all the dough has been cooked
• strain the gnocchi, place it into a container and sprinkle with olive oil, which will make sure it does not stick together

for the red onion marmelade

1. 1 red onion, chopped fine
2. 30ml unsalted butter
3. 30ml brown sugar
4. 20ml balsamic vinegar
5. 30ml red wine
6. salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method:

• melt the butter in a saucepan
• add the onion and sauté until tender and slightly brown
• add the brown sugar and cook until it is dissolved
• add the balsamic vinegar and red wine
• reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid has evaporated, then remove from the heat

for the pine nut paste

1. 100g pine nuts, toasted with olive oil and maldon sea salt
2. 20ml olive oil
3. blend the nuts in a food processor, slowly adding the oil until the mixture becomes smooth

for the baby beets

1. place the beetroot in a pot, cover with cold water and add salt
2. cook the beetroot until tender
3. peel and cut in to match sticks

for the deep-fried artichoke hearts

1. from a tin of artichokes, peel the leaves off and dry as much as possible
2. lightly dust with corn flour and deep fry until golden brown
3. place on a paper towel and season with salt

putting the dish together

1. put a black pan on the stove, moderate heat and add a drizzle of olive oil
2. pan fry the gnocchi until golden brown, remove and place in a container
3. pan fry the oyster mushrooms and season with salt and chopped thyme (once almost cooked)
4. add 125ml white wine and reduce by half, then add 125ml fresh cream and simmer
5. add your gnocchi and red onion marmalade
6. place the gnocchi into a soup plate
7. spoon the pine nut paste with a teaspoon into the centre of the dish on top of the gnocchi
8. sprinkle the beetroot around the plate
9. add your artichoke and shaved parmesan
10. sprinkle the top of the dish with chopped chives

Enjoy with a glass or 2 of pinot noir!
                      

Babel - fresh innovation

The reason for a recent visit to Babylonstoren was lunch at Babel.  I had come across the menu a while back and thought it seemed somewhat decent.  I am a pushover when it comes to fresh, locally sourced ingredients and with this restaurant, that concept is taken to a whole new level.  The estate's 8 acre garden, with extensive fruit and vegetables, is harvested throughout the year and is inspired by the Company Gardens of the Cape. 

Our lunch began with fresh bread, guava, pesto and real butter.  The RED salad was our choice and it must rank in my top 5 of all time.  Brilliant combinations of flavour and great textural components.  My beef short-rib was about as tender as is possible but the game-changer was the cauliflower dish.  A real stroke of genius, that sounded good, looked great and tasted even better.  Sometimes chef's try to be a little too clever with it comes to thinking outside the box.  Sometimes they get it exactly right.

Amazingly, head chef Cornelle Minie never thought she would be a chef.  She said that it might have all started because her mom had 2 dishes - take it or leave it.  She started playing around with food, began to enjoy the rush, and wanted to learn more.  Her formal studies were at Silwood Kitchens, in Rondebosch, where she received her Grande Diploma.  Her first job was at Terroir (at Kleine Zalze), under the supervision of Nic Van Wyk and Michael Broughton.  A couple of years in Scotland, at a Boutique Hotel and a little restaurant, followed this and then she returned to SA, and The Big Easy, in Stellenbosch.  Her next move was to Cuvee at Simonsig before the opportunity at Babel arrived.  Cornelle says that the real joy at Babel, is the ability to harvest fresh produce daily, compiling menu's around whatever is available in the garden.  She gets to do what she loves, learning everyday in an environment with endless possibility.       

'The' Cauliflower dish



Cornelle was happy to share her fantastic Cauliflower dish with us.

Cauliflower sandwich with poached guavas, melting gorgonzola, macadamia nuts and viola salt

Ingredients:

1. 3 whole cauliflower heads, green leaves removed
2. 4 ripe guavas, whole
3. 150g gorgonzola
4. bunch of purple viola flowers, dried
5. 5 Tbsp fleur de sel - hand harvested sea salt
6. 200g macadamia nuts, roasted
7. olive oil

For the poaching liquid:

1. 4 Tbsp granulated sugar
2. water
3. 1 stick cinnamon
4. 2 star anise
5. 1 piece of lemon zest - just the skin

Method:

• preheat the oven to 180 C
• steam the whole cauliflower heads for 20-30 mins, until just cooked, and set aside
• for the poaching liquid, combine all ingredients in a saucepan (cover with just enough liquid to cover guavas) and poach them on a medium heat until just soft
• remove the guavas from the liquid and set aside
• for the viola salt, grind the dried violas until it looks like dust, combine with just enough salt to get a purple colour
• to dry out violas, put them on a baking tray and leave in a warm place to dry out overnight
• put macadamia nuts on a baking tray and put in a hot oven until golden in colour, leave to cool
• chop the roasted macadamia nuts and set aside
• to assemble, slice the cauliflower into 2-3cm thick slices 
• you need 2 slices per person
• lay the slices on a baking tray and top all the slices with gorgonzola
• slice the guavas and place them on every second slice of cauliflower (so one slice will have just gorgonzola and the next will have gorgonzola and guava)
• place in a hot oven for 5 - 10 mins until hot and warmed through
• place the slice with both the gorgonzola and guava on the plate and top with the slice with just the gorgonzola
• put a pinch of viola salt next to the sandwich
• scatter the macadamia nuts over and around the cauliflower and drizzle with olive oil
• garnish with some fresh viola flowers

Simply Saffron - modestly magnificent

We recently spent a couple of days in Prince Albert during their Winter School.  For those of you who don't know, it's the little Karoo town, at the base of the Swartberg, with a big heart and an even bigger creative energy. 

We had a busy few days, taking part in a Mosaic Workshop, a film at the new Showroom Theatre, a lecture on minerals and a tasting of the cheeses produced at Gay's Dairy.  The restaurants in the dorpie (little town) have always impressed and this visit certainly didn't disappoint. 

Simply Saffron, at 10 Church Street, is owned and managed by Ridwaan and Hermon.  It's fairly new to town but has already made quite a name for itself.  A number of people told us about their ever-changing and interesting menu, great value for money and (most importantly) fantastic food.  All of our informants were spot on.  A 3 course menu, with options that would please the full spectrum of veggies and carnivores alike and a venue that ticks all the boxes when it comes to comfort and service.  To say the price is reasonable is an understatement and as a BYO (bring your own) establishment (with no corkage) it just gets better and better. 

I asked Ridwaan for a recipe, which I will share with you below, and he commented that he wanted to give me something easy, that everyone can have a go at and enjoy.  He said that it's the uncomplicated stuff that is often the most difficult to get right, because we take it for granted, but that with a little care and attention we can create something beautiful.  His 'easy' tomato soup starter was a perfect example of exactly this; simple food taken to the next level through meticulous preparation and execution.  My Ethiopian Lamb Stew had layer upon layer of flavour; a subtle dish but one that would awaken even the most weary of palates.   

Walnut and blue cheese pate with toasted linseed bread and orange, ginger and whisky marmalade

Carrot and cabbage koftas in a creamy yoghurt sauce

 

Ethiopian lamb stew

Here is Ridwaan's Vegetable Curry:

Ingredients:

1. 4 cups of seasonal vegetables, if you use potatoes make sure they are cut into small cubes
2. 2 Tbsp ghee or coconut oil
3. 1 tsp mustard seeds
4. 1 tsp fennel seeds
5. 1/2 tsp fenugreek seeds
6. 2 stems curry leaves
7. a thumb of ginger, grated
8. 2 green chillies, chopped
9. 2 tsp dried fenugreek leaves
10. 1/2 head of broccoli, cut into small florets
11. 3 ripe, jam tomatoes, chopped
12. salt and black pepper to taste

Method:

• slowly heat ghee or oil with curry leaves and chillies, not allowing them to blacken
• add all whole spices and continue heating until mustard seeds start to pop
• add ginger and braise for 30 seconds
• then add vegetables with a little water and fenugreek leaves and allow to cook until tender but still al dente
• add broccoli and tomatoes at this stage, along with seasoning
• cook for a further 5 minutes
• serve each portion with a roti or some basmati rice     

Esona - the very (good) one

The husband and wife owned wine estate of Esona is serenely perched on the banks of the Breede River, between Robertson and Bonnievale.  All of the grapes on the farm are hand-picked and end up in their 'Frankly my dear' Pinot Noir Blanc de Noir, and their 3 single vineyard wines, the Chardonnay, the Sauvignon Blanc and the Shiraz. 

A little while ago I was lucky enough to attend the Friday night event at Esona during the Slow Festival. Seventeen guests started with an atmospheric vertical tasting in their old, underground, candlelit kuip (20,000 litre cement tank) that not only gave us an appreciation of their vintage variation but also the importance of having wine in glasses that are designed to show them off.  We then moved upstairs and enjoyed a 3 course, home-cooked meal with their superb wines.  Owners Rowan and Caryl were our hosts for the evening and when I say they got pretty hands-on that's exactly what I mean.  Caryl prepared all the food and Rowan was MC, waiter and reserve dish-washer.  The whole team that took care of us on the evening did a great job but Heinrich, who has a special talent when it comes to looking after guests, deserves special mention.  A truly unique experience at one of South Africa's great boutique estates.

Rowan and Caryl

The springbok loin (the main) was so good that I got hold of Caryl and asked her for the recipe.  Here it is:


Caryl's springbok loin   

Ingredients:

1. a good sized springbok loin, cut into steaks
2. a pack of streaky bacon
3. oil
4. 1 small onion, chopped
5. a squeeze of lemon juice
6. 1/2 to 1 cup of red wine (preferably Esona)
7. 2 Tbsp Worcestershire sauce
8. some herbs, whatever you like
9. a good sprinkling of black pepper
10. 250ml cream
11. 1 Tbsp chicken stock
12. a few cloves of garlic, crushed

Method:

• quickly sear each steak in hot oil and set aside to cool
• retain pan juices
• when the meat has cooled a little, wrap each piece in 2 strips of bacon
• place on a foil-lined baking dish, shiny side up
• just before you are ready to eat put the tray of meat in a 180 C oven, and cook for 5 minutes each side, no longer if you're wanting it rare (as it should be)
• use the pan that you could the meat in (with juices left)
• brown the onion, add lemon juice, the red wine, the Worcestershire sauce and the herbs
• add a good sprinkle of black pepper, a little garlic, some chicken stock and allow to reduce and thicken
• you can add a little corn flour to help with the thickening
• before serving add the cream and heat through, don't let it boil at this stage
• enjoy with mash, rice or cous-cous and some vegetables    

A kiss of Pinot Noir

Pinot Noir (PN) is an extremely difficult, somewhat temperamental varietal to handle.  She (for some reason the feminine seems to fit) is a bit like the incredibly demanding, slightly fragile kid at the back of the classroom, difficult to train and even harder to manage - the teacher's nightmare.  An educator, when presented with one of these testing little creatures, has a choice to make.  Give up and let the child do what it wants until you happily wave them goodbye at the end of the year or try as hard as possible to see their potential (which may be well camouflaged), nurture and encourage it, and watch it become something beautiful.  A lot of retired teachers will look back at their school days and talk about their favourite students, a lot that were initially those absolute nightmares.  This challenge is similar to what a winemaker and viticulturist face when they look out over their PN block. And I think that's why a lot of them love making the stuff.  As they say in the classics, with great risk comes great reward. 

PN, from the French for Pine (because of the varietal's tightly clustered growth) and Black (for fairly self-explanatory reasons), is most famous in Burgundy, and the Champagne region uses it's fair share in their magical bubbles, usually alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.  New Zealand's South Island, Oregon and California in the States, Tasmania and the Yarra Valley in Oz and various parts of South Africa have more recently been recognised as potential PN areas, and are now making some fantastic wine. 

It's a varietal that does not have a thick skin (pun intended) and is not only vulnerable to wind and frost but also needs to be very well cared for because of it's tightly clustered bunches.  But it is this sensitivity that makes this particular grape so special.  When well handled and protected it becomes the very embodiment of elegance and has the ability to show off even subtle differences in soil type, making it a wonderful advocate of terroir. 

One must always remember that even though some describe it as being 'sex in a glass' or 'the most romantic of wines', the true essence of PN is that it cannot be tamed.  In my (humble) opinion, drinking a glass of PN is like experiencing a kiss.  Early on in the process, you'll know if it's a good or a bad one, and there will always be that specific one that will be benchmark for all others to come. 

I got to experience my benchmark kiss PN a while back at Newton Johnson (NJ), in the Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley, near Hermanus (in South Africa's Western Cape).  As I mentioned above it's a varietal that expresses itself very differently in various soil types and NJ is a great example of this.  I was luckily enough to taste PN from all of their blocks, some not far apart on the farm (literally only a few meters separating them), but amazingly different in the glass.  Their Family Vineyards PN is their blend of the blocks; giving the particular character and complexity that they (and I) are after.  A while back I mentioned the restaurant at NJ which is an added extra that makes any visit to the estate seriously worthwhile.      

 



Last night I decided to enjoy a bottle of NJ's Family Vineyards PN and cooked up a little roasted mushroom mix that worked an absolute treat.

     

Roast mushrooms with sour cream and crushed pecan nuts

Ingredients:

1. 2 punnets of mushrooms, some exotic, some ordinary
2. a handful of thyme, leaves removed, stalks discarded
3. a handful of flat leaf parsley, roughly chopped
4. 1 tsp chopped fresh garlic
5. 1 tsp chopped green chilli
6. a glug of olive oil
7. a few knobs of butter
8. a couple of pecan nuts, crushed
9. sour cream
10. salt and pepper to taste

Method:

• heat oven to 180 C
• to a baking dish, add mushrooms, herbs, garlic, chilli, olive oil, butter and a bit of salt and pepper
• put in the oven for about 15 minutes, or until done
• remove and serve, with a dollop of sour cream and a good sprinkling of nuts
• I served the mushrooms with some chilli and ginger calamari steaks but they could go with anything
• they go especially well with the PN 

Paul Cluver Wines

The farm has been in the family since 1896 and the current wine business is still very much a family affair.  I had a wonderful tasting of a selection of their wines the other night and was also given their secret recipe.  Well, not so secret.  Here it is:

Ingredients:

1. a dollop of intelligence
2. a few spoonfuls of forward thinking
3. a handful of science
4. a gallon of hard work
5. some varied slopes, soils and exposures
6. a little higher altitude and southerly position to taste 
7. a generous sprinkling of cooling summer sea breezes   

Method:

• mix all of your ingredients well, watching the slow ripening of the grapes and the resulting complexity in the glass

You must be mad if you've never tasted a Paul Cluver wine.  They are the bona fide representation of Elgin terroir and a wonderful example of what is happening in a South African wine industry that is flexing it's muscles.

Jacqueline Harris, from Paul Cluver, has given me an easy recipe to go with their very good Gewurtztraminer. 


Moroccan lamb ribs

Ingredients:

1. a rack of lamb ribs, separated (your nice butcher can do this for you if you like)
2. plenty of good Moroccan spice mix (blend of cumin, coriander, harissa and rose petals)
3. a braai (barbecue)

Method:

• rub ribs thoroughly and lovingly with spice
• make sure the Gewurtztraminer is chilled
• braai ribs until cooked the way you like them
• enjoy

Chicken livers and gooseberry's in a sherry cream sauce

Ingredients:

1. 250g chicken livers
2. a handful of gooseberries, washed and sliced in half
3. handful of flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
4. 50ml cream
5. 15ml sherry
6. 1 tsp fresh ginger, grated
7. 1 tsp garlic, finely chopped
8. 1 tsp fresh green chilli, finely chopped
9. 1 dessert spoon duck fat
10. salt and pepper to taste

Method:

• heat duck fat in a pan and add ginger, garlic and chilli
• after 30 seconds add chicken livers
• cook for around 2 mins and turn livers over
• add sherry and gooseberries and cook for 2 mins, then add cream
• when livers are to your liking (still a little pink inside for me), stir in parsley and season to taste 

Oyster Soup

It's almost time again for the Knysna Oyster Festival; 10 days of food, wine and all sorts of outdoor sporting adventures.  If you're an oyster fan, it's a great time to be in town.  Most of the restaurants get involved and come up with all sorts of creative oyster-focused dishes.

Here's an easy oyster soup:

Ingredients:

1. 1 tin smoked oysters, cut into halves
2. 1 tin mushroom soup
3. 40ml dry sherry
4. 200ml cream
5. a handful of flat-leaf parsley, chopped
6. a bit of lemon zest and juice
7. a few drops of tabasco
8. 50g of biltong, chopped roughly
9. a few spoons of full cream yoghurt

Method:

• heat the mushroom soup in a pot
• when the soup is hot, add the halved oysters and sherry
• let this heat slowly, but don't boil
• add the cream and continue heating
• when the soup is hot,  dish up into bowls
• put a spoonful of yoghurt in the centre of each bowl, then add a little biltong, some parsley and a sprinkle of lemon zest
• add a few drops of tabasco onto the yoghurt and also a squeeze of lemon

  

Duck Breast, Irish Coffee Sauce and Cauliflower Mash

A well cooked duck breast is a magnificent thing.  Big on flavour and texturally great if you get the skin crispy and the meat tender.  Add a creamy, nutmeggy cauliflower mash and a sauce that packs a punch and you've hit the jackpot.

Ingredients:

1. 2 duck breasts
2. salt and pepper

Cauliflower mash:

1. 2 heads of cauliflower, washed and cut into chunks
2. a knob of butter
3. 2 Tbsp little cream
4. 1/2 tsp nutmeg

Sauce:

1. 2 Tbsp unsalted butter
2. 100ml chicken stock
3. 2 tots whisky
4. 100ml strong coffee (or 2 espresso's if you a machine)
5. 50ml cream

Method:

• pat dry the duck skin, score, sprinkle with a good amount of salt and rub in
• boil the cauliflower until soft and then mash (or blend in a processor if you want your mash extra smooth)
• to the cauliflower add butter, nutmeg and a little cream, season well and keep warm
• for the sauce heat butter in a small pot, add the stock, bring to the boil and then add the whisky
• allow this boil and reduce a little for 10 mins, then add the coffee
• let this reduce by half (10 mins)
• add the cream and whisk over a low heat, the sauce will thicken slightly
• while the sauce stays warm, and thickens a little more, put the duck, skin side down, in a dry pan
• heat the oven to 180 C
• fry until the skin is crispy and golden
• turn the duck over and seal for 1 minute on the other side
• put the duck in the oven for 5 minutes, remove and then allow to rest for 10 mins, covered with foil
• dish up a little mash, then a few pieces of sliced duck, followed by some sauce 

Die Stal

Montagu is a dorpie small town on South Africa's 'Route 62'.  It's famous for mountains, mineral springs, dried fruit and a bit of wine and it has some great places to get a bite to eat.  One of these is 'Die Stal', which you'll find on Kruis Farm, 10km outside of town, on the R318.  It serves up wholesome farm-style food with an air of elegance.  My chicken schnitzel and seriously creamy cheese, mushroom and bacon sauce was done just right.  Even Goldilocks would have been happy.   
 

Fish balls, garlicky prawns and a fresh salad

5* Chicken schnitzel 

They gave me their Baked Cheesecake recipe.

Ingredients:

1. 1 packet 200g Marie biscuits
2. 125ml butter, melted
3. 250ml cream
4. 250ml sugar
5. 2 tins condensed milk
6. 3 tubs smooth cottage cheese
7. 200ml lemon juice

Method:

• for the crust, mix the biscuits and butter and press firmly into the base of your cake tin
• for the cake mix, whisk the sugar and cream until stiff
• add the condensed milk and cottage cheese and beat
• mix the lemon juice in well
• put the mix on the base and bake at 180 C for 20 min and then allow to cool
• enjoy

Luckily they're OEP VE KOEP

An hour an a half north of Cape Town (and it's blockbuster mountain) is the traditional West Coast fishing village of Paternoster.  With newly whitewashed cottages, an ever-present artistic talent and some fabulous dining options, it has well and truly secured it's spot on the South African international and domestic tourist trail.  A visit to the town will provide one with the opportunity of experiencing the warmth, generosity and good-humoured nature of the locals, and you'll inevitably encounter informal fresh fish and crustacean trading on most street corners. 

Oep ve Koep is a small, bistro-style restaurant attached to a little shop of the same name.  Kobus van der Merwe (Head Chef) has created something special from his tiny kitchen and put a wonderfully original spin on well known West Coast cuisine.  A great deal of effort goes into sourcing local and sustainable ingredients and he introduces guests to a few wild local herbs and vegetation, foraged from the coast, the surrounding area and a few nearby gardens.  

The restaurant is enormously refreshing with some serious flavour combinations (and a great wine list) presented in a relaxed, garden environment.  A visit gives you a sneak peak into the world of a chef that is in tune with his (and our) natural heritage and isn't scared of showing it off. 

The menu changes daily but some of his most popular hits make regular appearances.  The surprise snack of fresh bread with sweet preserved orange and lip smackingly moreish bokkom/olive tapenade had a slap of salt that required the urgent assistance of a chilled Sauvignon Blanc.  Luckily the wine flowed and the food continued to deliver.       

 

Bread, preserved orange and a bokkom/olive tapenade

Maasbanker (Cape horse mackerel) bokkom, pear and shoreline salad

Saldahna Bay mussels, salvia-smoked angelfish and tulbaghia (wild garlic)

          

Kobus has given us a great snoek recipe.  If you can't get smoked snoek, mackerel will do.


Kobus' smoked snoek croquettes

Ingredients:

1. 2 large potatoes, peeled and quartered
2. 250g smoked snoek, flaked
3. 1 small onion, finely chopped
4. juice and zest of half a lemon
5. small handful of fresh fennel, chopped
6. 1 garlic clove, crushed
7. breadcrumbs
8. flour for dusting
9. 2 eggs, lightly beaten
10. vegetable or seed oil for deep frying
11. 60g butter
12. 100ml cream

Method:

• in a small saucepan, cook the potato in salted boiling water
• when the potato is soft throughout, strain
• pass the soft potato through a potato ricer, add butter, cream and season
• combine the flaked snoek, potato mash, onion, garlic, lemon, and fennel
• season to taste with salt and black pepper
• add one Tbsp egg and mix well until combined
• using your hands, roll the snoek mix into small balls
• dust each ball with flour, dip in egg and roll in bread crumbs
• deep-fry until golden and crispy

Enjoy as a snack or make a simple meal of it, served with whole sweet potato baked in foil over hot coals.

Ye Old Thatch - not just one of the 26

Beaufort West is the largest town in South Africa's Great Karoo and I am reliably told that it has 26 things to do.  One of these is a visit to Ye Old Thatch (on the main street), an amalgamation of Bed and Breakfast, Art/Antique Gallery and cosy, country pub.  The place has a reputation for Karoo lamb, and with the town being slap bang in the heart of SA sheep territory, I thought a visit was the right thing to do.

It's an interesting structure with homely nooks and crannies and welcoming owners.  There is an extensive menu that includes well done seafood (Edith, the owner, is from Veldrif on the West Coast) and a variety of meaty options.  My lamb platter was rustic and big on flavour with the crisp pan seared lamb liver being top of the pops, and even better than the chops. 

Edith gave me a few recipes but the one I found most interesting was Lamb chops in Amarula.


Lamb chops in Amarula

Ingredients:

1. a few lamb chops
2. a little olive oil
3. salt and pepper
4. some finely chopped coriander
5. a few glugs of Amarula (and some for the chops)

Method:

• season the chops well
• fry in a hot pan with a little oil
• when crispy and almost done, pour a little (or a lot) of Amarula over each

Bouchard Finlayson

Peter Finlayson, winemaker at Bouchard Finlayson, is one of the pioneers of the Hemel-en-Aarde valley and a stalwart of the industry in South Africa.  With a strong focus on Pinot Noir in the vineyard, an enthusiasm for Chardonnay, an interesting mix of international varietals (mainly in the unique Hannibal blend) and a wonderful setting, a visit and tasting at this winery is a highlight of any journey into this incredible wine region.

On a recent visit I was suitably impressed and the wine that shone for me was the Limited Edition Kaaimansgat Chardonnay 2010, from grapes sourced from a Villiersdorp farm.  Really well balanced, pretty much exactly what I am looking for in a food chardonnay, with a great combination of tropical fruit and cinnamon apple, a complex wine that is given a real lift with 50% going in new French oak and 50% experiencing no wood at all. 

Peter Finlayson has given me his Bouillabaisse recipe, something he enjoys with his Kaaimansgat Chard.

Bouillabaisse

Ingredients:

1. a couple of fish heads
2. a few onions, finely chopped
3. a knob of butter
4. salt and pepper
5. 2 cups of white wine
6. 4 tomatoes, chopped
7. 2 tsp Thai curry seasoning
8. 2 tsp fish Masala
9. 1 tsp ground fennel seeds
10. 1 Tbsp apricot jam
11. 2 bananas, chopped
12. 1 lemon
13. 400g fresh white fish
14. 400g peeled prawns
15. 300g calamari

Method:

• boil up fish heads in a pot of water for around an hour, sieve, then set stock aside
• take a wide, flat-bottomed pot and brown the onions
• add the white wine and allow to simmer for 10 minutes
• add the chopped tomato, Thai and Masala seasoning, fennel, apricot jam, bananas, lemon juice and fish stock and allow to simmer for 30 mins
• season with salt and pepper
• 5 minutes before serving add fish, prawns and calamari    

The restaurant at Newton Johnson

Even though these guys haven't been up and running for very long they not only have their ducks in a row, they've got them quacking to the same song sheet and well seasoned at the same time.  My first visit could not have been better, really slick and knowledgeable service with a smile, a fantastic wine list that is supercharged by Newton Johnson's powerful Pinot Noirs, and an open, theatrical kitchen that is overflowing with creativity and executing dishes with the precision of a German arthroscopic surgeon.  All of this and the added bonus of looking down the magnificent Hemel-en-Aarde valley.  A match made in Heaven.

Eric Bulpitt, the chef and owner has spoilt us with a stunning recipe.  Enjoy!


Jerusalem artichoke veloute, roasted pork belly, apple and nutmeg puree, nasturtiums and watercress.   

Artichoke Veloute                                    Pork Belly                                 Apple and nutmeg puree

500g  Jerusalem artichokes                    1kg pork belly                           500ml apple juice

1med onion                                               canola oil                                   10ml sugar    

500ml milk                                                 thyme                                         1tsp agar agar

500ml cream                                              garlic                                          nutmeg

1tbl butter                                                  Maldon salt

salt                                                               pepper

pepper

Sour dough croutons, nasturtiums and watercress for garnish

A delicious soup, could be a meal on its own or a very fancy first course. You can substitute the artichokes with celeriac or parsnips. To achieve good crackling on the pork belly, pour some boiling water on the skin and pat dry. The dryer the skin, the better the end product. The apple and nutmeg puree is a bit cheffy but very easy to do.

Soup: Peel the Jerusalem artichokes and place in some acidulated water to prevent them from oxidizing. In a sauce pan melt the butter and add finely sliced onion, sweat onion with a good pinch of salt till translucent and soft. Add the artichokes and just cover with milk and cream. Bring to the simmer and cook for about 30min until soft. Blend, being careful as soup will be very hot. You want to have a nice thick soup consistency do not be afraid to add more milk if needed. Reserve

Roasted pork belly: Preheat the oven to 210C. Rub the belly with the oil, salt and pepper. Place on a roasting tray with garlic and herbs. Roast for 30min at 210C turn oven down to 180C and roast for another 1hour till crispy and delicious. I will not blame you if you want to tuck in straight away but do let it rest for 20 min.

Apple and nutmeg Puree: in a pot bring the apple juice to a simmer, add a good grating of nutmeg and sugar, and reduce by exactly half. Whisk in the agar agar and simmer for two minutes to dissolve. Place on a tray and refrigerate till set. Blend set jelly in food processor, adding a little apple juice to loosen until you have a good smooth gel like consistency. Reserve

Assemble: Heat soup and place in a jug or serving bowl. Cut belly into 3 x 3cm Cubes and place in warmed soup bowls. Make a few dots of puree around the belly and garnish with nasturtiums, watercress and croutons. Pour soup at the table for dramatic effect 

Moggs Country Cookhouse

Moggs has been in operation (and incredibly popular) for 20 years and after arriving the other day, for the first time, it didn't take me long to work out why.  It's a friendly, family run restaurant in the picturesque Hemel-en-Aarde Valley (near Hermanus) in South Africa's Western Cape.  There is a beautiful and relaxed country setting and with a wine list that showcases the valley's talent, wonderful local produce and a talented kitchen, any meal here will be memorable (for all the right reasons).

Lamb shank of note!

The team at Moggs have given me a sweet recipe. because I'm so sweet?


Lemon curd and yoghurt pots with brulee topping, Van Der Hum syrup and fresh berries

Ingredients: (serves 4)

1. 150g lemon curd
2. 500ml Greek yoghurt
3. 1 egg yolk (beaten)
4. zest of half a lemon
5. 400g fresh berries for topping
6. a sprinkling of Demerara sugar

Van Der Hum syrup:

1. half an orange, juice and rind
2. 2 Tbsp lemon juice
3. 120ml sugar
4. half tsp corn flour
5. 60ml Van Der Hum

Method:

Lemon curd brulee:

• mix all the ingredients together except the berries
• place in individual ramekins (4) and immerse half way in water in a tray, then cover with foil (to prevent curdling)
• bake for 25mins at 180 C
• the mix should have a slight wobble and will thicken a bit when cooled
• sprinkle with Demerara sugar and blow torch or pop under the grill to get your crisp topping

Van Der Hum syrup:

• add the juice, rind and sugar to a saucepan (over a medium heat) and stir until melted
• mix corn flour with a bit of water to a smooth consistency, then add to sauce to thicken
• cook for 2mins, stirring to avoid lumps
• take off the heat and stir in the Van Der Hum

Sprinkle fresh berries and Van Der Hum syrup over each brulee.
 

Elim - The Beautiful South

Not far from Africa's southernmost point at Cape Agulhas, is the Elim Wine Ward.  An environment that can truly be said to be suited to 'cool climate' wines with frequent sea 'breezes' chilling the vines.  By planting the right thing, in the right soil, with the correct sun and wind exposure, and most importantly not fiddling too much in the cellar, most of the winemakers of this part of South Africa have brought out the absolute best in their grapes.  The slow ripening of the fruit, due to the cool and relatively harsh conditions (and also soils that make the vines work to survive) allow for greater complexity and body in the wines.  This, in my opinion, is best expressed in their Sauvignon Blancs, with flinty minerality, great fruit and a natural acidity. 

The 2013 Strandveld Sauvignon Blanc, taken entirely from the Pofadderbos vineyard, is a wine that captures the uniqueness of the terroir perfectly.  Besides puffadders, the vineyard also has ferricrete soils and this plays a big part in creating the intense complexity, concentration and balance of powerful minerality and lively tropical fruit.  Their Adamastor is a very well constructed (Bordeaux) blend of Sauvignon and Semillon from South Africa's southernmost vineyards.  It's a fairly intense wine that requires a bit of concentration and is great with food.  

Strandveld's very talented winemaker, Conrad Vlok, is a great example of the young force that is taking South Africa's wine image to new heights.  His obvious passion for the industry is evident in all of his wines and even though his awards and medals could fill his cellar, he is about as down to earth as you get.

He's been incredibly busy in his vineyards of late but has still found time to give me a recipe that he feels works well with the Adamastor. 


Conrad's fresh Cob (normally caught off his kayak) with Sycadelic Sauce

Ingredients:

1. some fresh cob, filleted with the skin left on
2. a little flour
3. a handful of fresh coriander
4. a wedge of butter
5. half a lemon

Sycadelic Sauce:

1. 2 Tbsp canola oil
2. a handful of crushed cashew nuts
3. 1 chopped red chilli, seeds removed
4. 2 cloves fresh crushed garlic
5. 100ml lemon juice
6. 2 Tbsp fish sauce
7. 3 Tsbp apricot jam

Method:

• cut the fish into portions, dust with flour and set aside
• heat the oil in a small pot and fry the cashews, chilli and garlic for a few mins
• add the lemon juice and simmer for 2 mins
• add the fish sauce and simmer for another 2 mins, then stir in the apricot jam
• cook slowly to glaze
• taste the sauce, it should be a good sweet/sour combination (adjust if needed)
• fry the fish portions in a pan with a little oil, meat side first until golden
• turn the heat down and turn the fish skin side down
• as the skin starts to turn brown add the butter and squeeze in the fresh lemon
• don't overcook the fish
• put a good scoop of sauce over the top of each of the fish portions and garnish with some fresh coriander
• serve from the pan
• enjoy with some basmati rice, sweet potato and most importantly a chilled bottle of Adamastor

    

The Leopard

The Leopard, a relaxed bistro-style establishment in Melville (Johannesburg), channels it's energy into the exquisite and interesting dishes that leave a surprisingly chilled out kitchen.  It's pretty much exactly what I'm looking for when I go out for a meal.  A menu that is exciting and original, staff that are attentive but not unnecessarily formal and most importantly food that is generous, packed with flavour and well prepared.   

Mozambican piri piri quail stuffed with macadamias and herbs

Mauritian seabass and Saldahna mussels in a chilli, ginger, cream and chardonnay sauce

A beautiful DIY Steak tartare

Taro-leaf masala roll-up that was served with tzatziki, apple-atchar, flatbread and smoked chicken



Andrea Burgener, the talented chef (and co-owner), has the ability of transforming ordinary into exceptional without overcomplicating.  It's all about the food at The Leopard and only the best seasonal and sustainable ingredients are good enough for this kitchen.  Make sure you visit them ASAP. 

Andrea has given us her NOT-GAZPACHO recipe, which she feels is more refreshing than the usual mushed up raw tomato classic.

Not-Gazpacho (serves 8 lucky people)

Ingredients:

1. 3 cucumbers, peeled and roughly chopped
2. 4 avocados
3. 2 green peppers, pips removed
4. 1 and a half cups spring onion
5. 4 tsp fresh ginger
6. 3/4 cup lemon juice
7. 6 tsp white sugar (or to taste)
8. 1/2 cup chopped coriander
9. 4 cups water (or enough to make a thick soup)
10. 1 flat tsp salt (or to taste)
11. 1 tsp freshly ground black pepper
12. toasted sesame seeds
13. full or double cream yoghurt

Method:

• blend everything in batches until you have a smooth mix
• adjust consistency with more water if needed and lastly adjust seasoning
• unless ingredients are well chilled when blended chill for at least 2 hours  
• serve some soup in a bowl, topped with a little yoghurt, a sprinkling of sesame seeds and a little black pepper