The first-class fusion of Galle Fort

Galle Fort, on Sri Lanka's south-west coast, was built by the Portuguese in the late 15th century, with the Dutch enhancing fortifications from the middle of the 17th century.  Today it is a fascinating multi-ethnic melting pot of religion, culture and cuisine.  An intertwined web of European design and Asian tradition; a fully functioning little community with schools, churches, mosques, temples and every type of business imaginable.

Walking in the early morning and evening is the best way to experience Galle Fort's number one attraction - it's people.  Playing cricket, soccer, swimming, exercising, or purely enjoying a leisurely stroll, they love the outdoors and they interact as often as they can. 

Wandering along the walls allows one to appreciate the way the fort is as much a part of the ocean as it is part of the land, not only in position but also in the way it was built, with a substantial amount of shells and coral being used in its construction. 

If you could only visit one destination in Sri Lanka I would look no further than Galle Fort.  It's a truly unique destination, both in Sri Lanka and the rest of of the world.  It's a one of a kind.             

My top 5 things to do in Mirissa

1. Go for an early morning swim
2. Walk to the harbour and watch some early morning fishermen activity
3. Eat a roti or some kottu at 'The No.1 Dewmini Roti Shop'
4. Have a tour of the Hundungoda Tea Estate
5. Walk along the beach in the evening and then find a spot, at one of the many restaurants, and watch the sunset with a happy hour drink in hand

At first glance Mirissa seems like the perfect example of tourism gone horribly wrong.  It was exactly my feelings towards the place.  But I was wrong.  Just wait, be patient, there's a good chance it will grow on you.  It's an acquired taste; a bit like jackfruit.

The Hundungoda Tea Estate

On Sri Lanka's south coast, not far from Koggala, is the tongue-twister tea estate of Hundungoda, famous for it's Virgin White Tea.  This tea, which fetches unbelievable prices internationally (68 euros for 100g), is never touched by human hand, or any hand whatsoever.  The tiny shoots or 'silver tips', at the very top of the plant, are used and the result is a tea that not only tastes good but also has incredibly high anti-oxidant content. 

We caught a tuk-tuk from Mirissa to the estate, not really knowing what to expect or even if they'd be open.  This they were, and amazingly our guide was Malinga Herman Gunaratne, the sole proprietor and someone with more than 45 years in the industry.  We joined a small group (there were 5 of us) and walked around the estate that comprises tea, rubber, cinnamon, pepper and coconut, having a short break, at the plantation bungalow, for 2 cups of (different) teas and a beautiful piece of chocolate cake.  We also visited the tea factory, where fresh tea leaves are transformed into the stuff we are accustomed to.  The tour concluded with a tasting of all of the varieties produced in Sri Lanka and the (completely optional) chance to buy some tea.  The tour was free and it was without doubt one of our highlights of Sri Lanka.               

Review of Waterfalls Homestay, Ella

After a fabulous couple of days at Sujatha's, in Kandy, and a spectacular train trip into the hill country, we found ourselves wandering, slightly nervously, down Ella's busy and slightly grubby main street.  We followed my map and took a right turn up and away from the road.  With the noise of tuk-tuks and buses fading behind us (thankfully), we continued on for around 15 minutes and arrived at Waterfalls Homestay.

I had read that it was a peaceful spot, away from the (relative) rush of the town, but this was a serious understatement.  The place is chilled in the extreme and it's impossible not too fall in love with it and everything around it.  The views from the breakfast table, towards the waterfall, but also over farmland and forest, are sublime.  Almost as good as the breakfasts with great coffee, fruit, curd, honey and eggs done exactly the way you want.  Evening meals are also a hit with some of the dishes being better than anything I'd tasted in the country.  Memories of Kemal's sour fish curry (or Ambul Thiyal) brings tears to my eyes for all the right reasons.  Powerful black pepper, sour Gorika fruit and cubes of tuna, a mix that had bubbled away gloriously on a generous base of fresh curry leaves.

Our room, the studio, was on the first floor, with wonderful views and a tree-house sort of feel to it.  The room was spacious, clean, incredibly comfortable and, as an added bonus, had a extensive library of books.  I happened to pick up Across many mountains; putting it down again was extremely difficult.  A brilliant read especially if you have an interest in the Tibetan/China situation disaster.

Ella is famous for it's big rock, for postcard landscapes, for little Adams Peak and for it's position in amongst some of Sri Lanka's most wonderful tea plantations. For me it is special because of Waterfalls Homestay and hopefully, when I return, that is were I will once again unwind.
 

The view through Ella Gap

Not a bad spot for breakfast

Waterfalls

The view back towards Waterfalls Homestay from 'the' waterfall

The (most) Royal Botanical Gardens

With around 4000 plant species from around Sri Lanka and the tropical world, these gardens, that are located just west of Kandy City, are a floral masterpiece. Walking through different sections of the 147 acre grounds there is a tangible transition of both mood and character.  You encounter areas that are elegant and highly organised, others that are untamed and overgrown, a few haunting bits with bats and winding, tortured roots that seem to come alive when you look away, and many that give off such a peaceful energy it's very difficult not to find a spot on the grass for a snooze.

I'll let the orchids, pictured below, speak for themselves.



The Giant Bamboo of Burma

Where's Wally?

The old giant Javan fig tree

The local bat hangout

The avenue of palms

The magic of Kandy

Booking accommodation is always a bit of a lottery, even when you've trawled the Internet and done a good deal of research.  Sometimes you end up in a dump, but every now and then you hit the jackpot, which is exactly what happened to us in Kandy. 

At Sujatha's Homestay, hosts Roney and Sujatha treat you as if you are part of the family, not in the constipated smile when I see you kind of way, but rather with genuine interest and concern, the sort that can't be faked.  I was fortunate enough to have my first (of many) cooking lessons, and dinner, breakfast, tea, and everything else provided was absolute perfection.   

So, with Sujatha's as our little oasis, we set off to discover what the rest of Kandy was all about.  It could well have been that we felt so 'at home' at our accommodation in the calm of the trees, but we felt just as comfortable throughout the city.  The slightly cooler conditions could also have played a part, come to think of it.  We wandered the spectacular Royal Botanical Gardens (next post), hopped, skipped and jumped over leeches at the Udawatta Kele Sanctuary, explored the British Garrison Cemetery, strolled leisurely around the lake and people-watched, with fresh tea and coffee in hand, at the entrance to the Temple of the Tooth.  The place has a real buzz about it and we enjoyed spending time on the buses and joining the lunch-time curry run.

After 3 nights in Kandy we were honestly sad to leave.  Hopefully we'll be back one day to visit our Sri Lankan relatives.

Outside Sujatha's - under the close supervision of one of the 'watchdogs'

 

The beautiful lake

Udawatta Kele

Dinner for 2 at Sujatha's

Is it worth spending a bit of time in Sigiriya Village?

The answer is absolutely yes.  Even though the Rock Fortress is more than likely Sri Lanka's number 1 tourist attraction; the village itself remains rustic and the surrounding landscape is worthy of exploration. 

There are quite a few places to stay, like Sigiri Lion Lodge (with Ajith's extreme service with a smile) and Lal's Homestay (with tasty and plentiful evening meals).  There are plenty of places to eat but for me the best are Shenadi (for it's amazing curry and sambols) and Chuti (for roti's from heaven - ask for hot).  They are both very close to the (locals) entrance to the Rock.   

There are jeep safari's that will take you into the countryside, but if you're feeling more energetic get a bicycle and take some of the backroads, to the small rock and on to the 'reservoir' or dam, that is popular with locals and has great views back towards Sigiriya.

Sigiriya

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Sigiriya was our first cultural stop in Sri Lanka.  Around 200 metres high, a visit requires a bit of a walk and quite a few vertical stairs, so we decided to get through the gates as they opened at 7am.  We were on top, before the heat, and the onslaught of tour buses, and got the chance to explore in relative calm. 

The site began as a monastery in the 3rd Century (BC) and in the 5th Century (AD), became a King's royal residence, with fairly significant fortifications, moats etc.  The King had been a bad boy and needed a safe crib. 

It's a really interesting place to stroll around, and the views from the top are magnificent.  The frescoes, located in a cave, reached by negotiating a slightly dodgy spiral staircase, are beautiful and the famous mirror wall has poems and inscriptions from the 8th Century AD, and many more recent ones, known nowadays as graffiti.