I have been fortunate enough to attend a few wine dinners at
'The Plettenberg' over the last few years. It's a great place to enjoy a meal and to learn about and taste some of our
fantastic South African wines. The exciting thing is that it seems as if these events are getting better and better. A recent dinner, with wines from
Ataraxia, was almost perfect. I'll let the menu do the talking:
Canapés
Confit duck wonton
Smoked salmon tartar
Broccoli, pear & Danish feta quiche
Ataraxia
Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Free range
chicken ballottine
baby gem, parmesan custard, anchovy aioli,
pancetta crisps, caramelised walnuts
Ataraxia
Sauvignon Blanc 2014
Slow roasted
pork belly
prawn and glass noodle salad, spiced pineapple
chutney,
asian vinaigrette, crackling
Ataraxia
Chardonnay 2013
Parmesan
gnocchi
oyster mushrooms, baby beets, deep fried artichokes,
red onion
marmalade,pine nut paste
Ataraxia
declassified Pinot Noir 2013
Roast beef
tenderloin
oxtail, potato & wild mushroom gratin, pea puree,
confit pearl onions,
red wine jus
Ataraxia
Serenity 2009
assiette of
friandise
Earl grey madeleine, assorted macaroons, pistachio
& walnut baklava, marshmallows, Turkish delights, mini tiramisu phyllo
baskets
Executive chef, Grant Parker, had the somewhat difficult task of compiling a menu that could stand up to a list of wines of exceptional quality. The food could very easily have been bullied into the background but this was not the case. The food and wine shone in equal measures.
Kevin Grant, owner and winemaker at Ataraxia, has a special piece of land in the Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge Ward, near Hermanus. He's a self-proclaimed soil farmer and says that essentially what he does is put soil in a glass, with the help of some grapes and a bit of effort. Kevin, a Burgundy fanatic, is working hard to create wines that have ageing potential. A great example of this is his Chardonay, with a delicate oak expression that accentuates the complex fruit and bold mineral acidity. In fact, an ABC (anything but Chardonnay) advocate at our table, who, when first presented with the wine, nervously sniffed and poked at it, fell in love and it turned out to be her wine of the night. In reference to his Sauvignon Blanc, Kevin says the vintage on the label shouldn't be the sell (or consume) by date, sadly an impression that is often absorbed by the market. He is a winemaker that speaks with abundant humour and a chiseled common sense and I can't remember experiencing a more interesting, informal wine talk in the last few years. The 'declassifed' 2013 Pinot Noir, that is not being commercialised until it's just right (according to Kevin), has huge potential and seems to, like his Chardonnay, be a cheerful amalgamation of old and new-world winemaking and style.
The most wonderful thing about the evening was that we had pre-booked a taxi for the ride home. The worst thing was it never arrived.
Grant has very kindly given me the recipe for his Gnocchi dish.
parmesan
gnocchi
oyster
mushroom, baby beets, deep fried artichokes,
red
onion marmalade, pine nut paste
for the parmesan gnocchi
400g
potato
160g
white flour
1 whole egg
5ml fine
salt
120g
finely grated parmesan cheese
Method:
- bake the potato in an oven at 180 degrees
for approximately 40 mins making sure it's cooked all the way through
- peel the potato and pass it through a fine sieve
- add
the flour, egg, salt and parmesan
- knead the mixture for 5 mins
- lightly dust a board with flour and break the dough into 4 pieces
- roll the dough into a sausage shape,
approximately 1.5cm in diameter
- from the left hand side cut the end piece
off and discard
- pinch the mixture with your index
finger and thumb to form a hour glass shape and cut on the right side of
the shape, will be about 2cm in length
- cut all the dough and place on a tray,
lightly dusted with flour, use a large knife to pick this mixture up
- place a pot on the stove with water and
salt and bring to the boil
- have a container with ice and cold water ready
- in batches place the gnocchi into the
boiling water and stir softly
so that it doesn't stick to the bottom of the pan
- once the gnocchi comes to the surface it
is cooked, with a slotted spoon remove it from the water and
place into the ice cold water
- carry on this way until all the dough has been
cooked
- strain the gnocchi, place it into a
container and sprinkle with olive oil, which will make sure it does not
stick together
for the red onion marmelade
- 1 red
onion, chopped fine
- 30ml
unsalted butter
- 30ml
brown sugar
- 20ml
balsamic vinegar
- 30ml red
wine
- salt and
freshly ground black pepper
Method:
- melt the butter in a saucepan
- add the onion and sauté until tender and
slightly brown
- add the brown sugar and cook until it is dissolved
- add the balsamic vinegar and red wine
- reduce the heat and simmer until the liquid
has evaporated, then remove from the heat
for the pine nut paste
- 100g
pine nuts, toasted with olive oil and maldon sea salt
- 20ml
olive oil
- blend the nuts in a food processor, slowly
adding the oil until the mixture becomes smooth
for the baby beets
- place the beetroot in a pot, cover with
cold water and add salt
- cook the beetroot until tender
- peel and cut in to match sticks
for the deep-fried artichoke hearts
- from a tin of artichokes, peel the leaves
off and dry as much as possible
- lightly dust with corn flour and deep fry
until golden brown
- place on a paper towel and season with salt
putting the dish together
- put a black pan on the stove, moderate
heat and add a drizzle of olive oil
- pan fry the gnocchi until golden brown,
remove and place in a container
- pan fry the oyster mushrooms and season with
salt and chopped thyme (once almost cooked)
- add 125ml white wine and reduce by
half, then add 125ml fresh cream and simmer
- add your gnocchi and red onion marmalade
- place the gnocchi into a soup plate
- spoon the pine nut paste with a teaspoon
into the centre of the dish on top of the gnocchi
- sprinkle the beetroot around the plate
- add your artichoke and shaved parmesan
- sprinkle the top of the dish with chopped
chives
Enjoy with a glass or 2 of pinot noir!